Classic Deli Vibes at Schmaltz

Schmaltz Bar & Delicatessen offers a nostalgic trip back to classic New York-style delis with their old-school charm and inviting ambiance. The black-and-white tiled floors, warm wooden furnishings, and deep green leather booths create a timeless and cozy atmosphere. Soft jazz playing in the background enhances the experience, adding to the restaurant’s effortless vintage appeal.

The meal started with a simple, light, and hearty chicken soup. While comforting, it fell a little short on the depth of flavor; a stronger broth or additional seasoning could have elevated it. However, the Comté with apricots was a standout. The nutty richness of the cheese paired beautifully with the sweet, slightly tart apricots, creating a delightful contrast of flavors.

Schmaltz offers a great mix of atmosphere and food. While the chicken soup could have used more flavor, the Comté with apricots was delicious. Its classic decor and cozy feel make it a great spot for anyone who enjoys a traditional deli experience.

 

Schmaltz Bar & Delicatessen

Nybrogatan 19, 114 39 Stockholm, Sweden

A Cozy Stop at Bergstrands Bageri

Near Odenplan Station in Stockholm, Bergstrands Bageri is a charming neighborhood café with a great selection of sandwiches, bread, and pastries. The atmosphere is warm and inviting, and the staff is friendly and welcoming.

I ordered a ham and cheese croissant and a coffee. The croissant was flaky and buttery, filled with savory ham and melted cheese—simple yet delicious. The coffee was smooth and well-balanced, making for a satisfying break.

With its cozy setting, lovely service, and fresh, high-quality baked goods, Bergstrands Bageri is a great spot for a relaxed coffee break or quick breakfast near Odenplan. Definitely worth a visit!

Bergstrands Bageri


Frejgatan 46a, 113 26 Stockholm, Sweden

Swedish Classics and Antique Charm at Den Gyldene Freden

Den Gyldene Freden has been around since 1722, serving timeless Swedish classics in a historic setting. The restaurant’s old-time façade sets the tone, offering an authentic old-world atmosphere that transports you back in time. The antique furnishings add to the charm, creating a nostalgic experience that feels like stepping into another era. Located in the heart of the Old Town, the restaurant is a true gem.

While the service was a bit slow due to having only two waiters, the overall ambiance made up for it. The classic decor, with its warm candlelit glow and elegant candle chandeliers, adds a cozy and inviting touch to the experience. Dining at Den Gyldene Freden feels like a journey through history, where every detail contributes to an unforgettable atmosphere.

The meatballs are soft and flavorful, with a perfect blend of seasoning and texture. The mashed potatoes have a creamy, smooth consistency with just the right amount of salt and butter, making them the perfect comfort food. The lingonberries add a subtle sweetness, while the pickled cucumber offers a delightful tanginess, creating a harmonious balance of flavors. The plating is beautifully done, with vibrant colors that make the dish visually appealing and appetizing. The entire combination is not only delicious but also well thought out in terms of taste and presentation.

Österlånggatan 51, 111 31 Stockholm, Sweden

Open fire cooking at EKSTEDT

Ekstedt is a one-Michelin-star restaurant led by Niklas Ekstedt. It specializes in Nordic wood-fire cooking techniques. Situated on Humlegårdsgatan, next to Sturegallerian, the restaurant’s ambiance combines rustic charm with elegant sophistication. It features mood lighting, rustic wooden furniture, and metal accents.

The restaurant offers a set menu exclusively, with the option to include drink pairings. Dietary adaptations for allergies can be accommodated, but advance notice is required prior to your visit. The staff are attentive, professional, and welcoming, with excellent English communication skills.

Dining Experience

The journey begins in the lounge, where guests are offered a drink and a starter (drinks are not included in the set menu unless you choose the drink pairing).

We were then escorted to the kitchen for an immersive dining experience. We met the head chef and the culinary team there, who shared insights into the restaurant’s cooking philosophy. The kitchen exclusively uses charcoal, hay, and organic Swedish birch wood, known for its ability to produce minimal smoke while burning longer. All dishes are prepared over fire, with the exception of a few that are cooked on their sole stove, dating back to 1923.

Starters

In the kitchen, we enjoyed three starters and a palate-cleansing drink:

  1. Mushroom, Charcoal Cream, Raw Leek, and Fried Leek
    Smoky, slightly tangy, with a rich umami flavor—an excellent start.
  2. Swedish Flatbread
    Cooked in cast iron and served with fermented butter, smoked emulsion, pickled onion, and vendace roe—perfectly balanced and satisfying.
  3. Yellow Fish Tail (Oyster Substitute)
    As I don’t eat oysters, they served me a yellow fishtail cooked in tempered fat, paired with roasted stock onion and leek oil. The dish was creamy, fresh, and light.

Palate Cleanser
A choice of juice or wine; I opted for the fermented blueberry juice, which was refreshing and invigorating.

After the starters, we moved to the dining room, where I was seated at the rustic stone bar. This bar also serves as the station where chefs apply the finishing touches to dishes before service. Watching the chefs and service staff work in harmony was a fascinating experience. While waiting for my food, I had a delightful conversation with the floor manager from Kyoto, Japan. He shared that the restaurant employs a multicultural team, with staff members from Spain, Italy, Japan, South Korea, Britain, Sweden, and Switzerland.

Courses

Birch-Fired Green Peas and Broad Beans with Woodruff and Gooseberries
This dish was fresh, summery, and had a vibrant green flavor with a touch of salinity.

Sourdough Bread with Butter and Smoked Whey
The bread was baked in a wood oven using a sourdough starter that dates back to the restaurant’s opening 12 years ago. It was fragrant and rustic, with a nice crust and a soft, chewy texture. The slight tang and deep flavor made it unforgettable.

Main Seafood Courses
While I appreciated the quality and creativity, these dishes were not entirely to my taste, as I prefer my seafood thoroughly cooked.

  • Smoked Turbot with Flowering Quince and Mangalica Pork Fat
    The flavors were rich and smoky, but the texture wasn’t for me.
  • Seaweed-Fired Norwegian Langoustine with Celeriac and Solaris
    First baked and then steamed, served in a langoustine-head broth with pine cone oil. The broth was flavorful, but the langoustine texture felt underdone for my preference.

Juniper-Smoked Reindeer Saddle

The next course featured a juniper-smoked reindeer saddle, perfectly paired with chanterelles and blackcurrants, which added a hint of tart contrast to the rich, smoky flavors. Alongside was a croissant-like pastry designed to soak up the velvety sauce—a thoughtful addition that elevated the dish. The reindeer itself was tender, with a delicate smokiness that complemented the earthy chanterelles.

Smoked Yoghurt, Cucumber, and Rhubarb
A lighter dish followed: smoked yogurt, cucumber, and rhubarb. The combination was both refreshing and sophisticated, with the yogurt’s slight smokiness enhancing the tangy-sweet rhubarb and crisp cucumber. It acted as a palate cleanser, preparing the taste buds for the next indulgence.

Wood-Oven-Fired Cep Mushroom Soufflé
The next course showcased the restaurant’s mastery of fire cooking with a wood-oven-fired cep mushroom soufflé. The soufflé was airy yet rich. It was paired with spruce and blueberries, adding a touch of Nordic forest essence to the dish. The subtle sweetness of the blueberries and the herbal notes of the spruce balanced the dish beautifully.

After the savory courses, guests were invited back to the lounge for drinks and dessert, creating a seamless transition from the dining area.

Mignardises
Dessert was a visual and sensory delight. Mignardises were served on a striking tree-like serving plate, adding an artistic and natural touch to the presentation. These small, bite-sized treats included a variety of textures and flavors—sweet, tangy, and nutty—that offered a perfect conclusion to the meal. Each piece was meticulously crafted, showcasing the restaurant’s attention to detail.

Overall, Ekstedt offers a truly unique and immersive dining experience. While some dishes were not to my personal taste, the dedication to wood-fire techniques, the quality of ingredients, and the storytelling behind the meal made it a memorable evening.

Humlegårdsgatan 17, 114 46 Stockholm, Sweden

Lillebrors Bageri: A Gem on Rörstrandsgatan

Lillebrors Bageri is located on Rörstrandsgatan, a street that turns car-free during the summer. It’s a popular spot, so it’s best to go early to avoid long lines. I arrived shortly after they opened at 8 a.m., with only a few customers ahead of me. But it wasn’t long before more people started to arrive, and a line quickly formed. Fortunately, service is fast, so the wait goes by quickly.

As a big fan of cardamom buns, I was eager to try Lillebrors after reading so many positive reviews. A simple outdoor seating area with a wooden bench and a tree stump as a table adds to the charm.

I ordered a cinnamon croissant and a cardamom bun. The cinnamon croissant was buttery and chewy with a satisfying crunch, while the cardamom bun was perfect—soft, chewy, sweet, with just the right amount of cardamom, exactly how I like it.

The café only serves brewed coffee with dairy and non-dairy milk options, and it paired well with the pastries, helping to balance out the sweetness.

Although Lillebrors doesn’t offer a wide variety of baked goods, its offerings are top-notch. It has easily become one of my favorite bakeries in Stockholm.

 

Rörstrandsgatan 10, 113 40 Stockholm, Sweden

Sweets By Camilla

Sweets By Camilla is a charming and chic café run by Swedish pastry chef Camilla Hamid. I discovered it by chance after dining at a nearby Persian restaurant, hoping to satisfy my sweet tooth. The place was bustling, which made me optimistic about its offerings.

Stockholm has two locations: one on the first floor of Sturegallerian and the other on Torsgatan. I visited the Torsgatan location.

The café features a variety of treats, including palm-sized cookies, mud cakes, buns, carrot cake, and a unique “crookie” (a croissant-cookie hybrid), along with a selection of coffee and cold beverages.

I opted for a slice of carrot cake and a Matcha latte. The cake was soft and crumbly without being dry, topped with a cream cheese frosting that had a nice texture. However, I found the frosting a bit too sweet, especially since the cake itself was already quite sugary.

If you’re a fan of sweets, this cozy spot is definitely worth a visit.

Torsgatan 31, 113 21 Stockholm, Sweden

South Indian food in Stockholm

Saravanaa Bhavan

Saravanaa Bhavan is a globally renowned South Indian vegetarian restaurant chain known for its authentic and flavorful dishes. Founded in Chennai, India, it has expanded internationally and offers a wide variety of traditional South Indian fare, such as dosas, idlis, sambar, and chutneys.

Saravanaa Bhavan is located on St Eriksplan. It’s a small restaurant with a few tables. While the small space provides a cozy setting, the decor feels somewhat outdated and could benefit from a modern refresh to create a cleaner, more vibrant ambiance.

I ordered a rasam soup, vada, and plain dosa.

The rasam soup was spicy, tangy, and packed with a variety of bold spices, offering a warming and flavorful start to the meal.

The vada had a thin, crispy layer with a soft, pillowy interior, mildly spiced but perfectly balanced and delicious.

The dosa was served with sambar and two variations of coconut chutney, one more traditional and the other slightly sweeter. While the dosa was well-prepared and crispy, it lacked the distinct sourness typically associated with fermentation. However, the accompanying sambar and chutneys complemented the dish well and were flavorful.

Sankt Eriksgatan 66, 113 20 Stockholm, Sweden

 

MahaBelly Taste Of Kerala

MahaBelly is a South Indian restaurant specializing in Kerala’s rich and diverse cuisine. The lighting inside was somewhat dim, but as soon as I entered, I was greeted by the inviting aroma of Indian spices, immediately setting the tone for a flavorful experience.

The service was warm and welcoming, with the waiter offering a friendly smile and attentive hospitality.

The extensive menu features a wide selection of seafood and meat dishes, biryanis, various dosas, breads, and the traditional Kerala Thali. After hearing about Thali but having never tried it before, I decided to go for the non-vegetarian option. The Thali included an assortment of chicken, fish, and vegetable curries, soup, pickles, and a sweet dessert, all served with red rice and pappad.

Each dish on the Thali was bursting with flavor, offering a delightful balance of sweet, savory, sour, and spicy notes that complemented one another perfectly.

I also couldn’t resist ordering a masala vada—crispy, deep-fried lentil fritters made with chana dal, onions, curry leaves, and spices. The vada had a satisfyingly crunchy exterior and a dense, crumbly inside, delivering a burst of flavors with a subtle hint of spice.

The restaurant is clearly a favorite among the Indian community. By the end of my meal, every table was filled with Indian diners, further testament to the authenticity of the food.

I’m truly glad I had the chance to enjoy such authentic South Indian cuisine right here in Stockholm.

Mahabelly-Taste of Kerala, Hantverkargatan 65, 112 31 Stockholm, Sweden

Authentic Thai food in Central Stockholm

Thai Elephant is located in Norrmalm, Stockholm’s most central and busiest neighborhood, on Gamla Brogatan. The restaurant is run by a Thai family. Two ladies work in the kitchen, while a lone Thai waitress manages the front. Though the service was a bit slow due to the limited staff, the waitress was warm and apologetic, hoping for understanding. The restaurant serves classic Thai dishes such as Tom Yum, Pad Thai, and curries. The interior is simply decorated with Thai wall art and pictures.

As always, I started with the Thai papaya salad, a must-have dish whenever I visit a Thai restaurant. While the salad had the right textures, it leaned a bit too much on the sweet side and could have used more spice to balance the flavors.

The Pad Thai, on the other hand, was a standout. It hit all the right notes—savory, nutty, and just the right amount of sweetness, with a refreshing hint of tang from the lime. The prawns were fresh, and the bean sprouts added a crisp bite that lightened the dish.

Overall, despite the minor service hiccups, I was pleasantly surprised by the authenticity of the food. I would definitely return to explore more of the menu.

Thai Elephant

Gamla Brogatan 11, 111 20 Stockholm, Sweden

Persian food in Stockholm

Malakeh Restaurang

Malakeh is a family-run restaurant. The decor had a Persian feel with Persian rugs and decorative carved wood panels. The moment I stepped inside, I was greeted by the fragrant aroma of Persian herbs.

I ordered the Ghormeh Sabzi, which came with a side of yogurt and a Shirazi salad. Ghormeh Sabzi considered the national dish of Iran, is a hearty stew made with a mix of fresh herbs, kidney beans, dried lime, and tender lamb. This dish boasts a unique and complex flavor profile—its earthy aroma and savory yet sour taste make it truly special.

The Ghormeh Sabzi was absolutely delicious. It tasted homemade and comforting, just like something you’d enjoy at a Persian family gathering. Every bite was rich and flavorful. It felt like a warm hug from the kitchen. If you’re in the mood for a truly authentic Persian dining experience, Malakeh is definitely a place to visit!

Drottninggatan 77, 111 60 Stockholm, Sweden

 

Tajrish restaurang

Tajrish is a cozy, small, family-run restaurant located in the Vasastan neighborhood on Torsgatan. The atmosphere feels warm and welcoming, with a homely touch in every corner. The owner’s wife, a sweet and kind lady, came out of the kitchen to inquire about how the food was, adding a personal touch to the experience.

It’s a casual spot where the salad and coffee are self-serve. I ordered the Fesenjan, a traditional Persian dish made with pomegranate and walnut chicken. Fesenjan is a tangy-sweet chicken stew cooked with ground toasted walnuts and pomegranate molasses, and this version tasted just like the ones my Persian friends make — rich, flavorful, and deeply comforting.

The dish had a perfect balance of sweet and sour, showcasing an authentic, homemade flavor that you could tell was cooked with a lot of love and care. It’s one of those meals that brings you back to special memories, and the attention to detail in both the preparation and the flavors was outstanding.

This place is a gem if you’re looking for a true taste of Persian home cooking. I highly recommend it!


 

Torsgatan 31, 113 21 Stockholm, Sweden